Trifari Vintage Jewelry

 

A Sparkling Legacy: The History of Trifari Costume Jewelry (Pre-2000)

A Sparkling Legacy: The History of Trifari Costume Jewelry (Pre-2000)

If you've ever admired the glimmer of a vintage brooch or the elegance of a rhinestone necklace, there's a good chance you've encountered Trifari—one of the most beloved and enduring names in costume jewelry. For collectors and fashion lovers alike, Trifari represents a golden era of craftsmanship and design. Let’s take a closer look at Trifari’s rich history before the year 2000, explore their maker’s marks, and learn how to identify quality Trifari pieces.

 The Origins of Trifari

Trifari was founded in 1910 by Gustavo Trifari, an Italian immigrant with a vision for creating beautiful yet affordable jewelry. The company rose to prominence in the 1930s after hiring Alfred Philippe, a former designer for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Philippe introduced refined design techniques, like the use of invisible settings and high-end plating, which elevated Trifari's costume jewelry to near-fine jewelry status.

Throughout the 1930s–1950s, Trifari became a go-to brand for glamorous, high-quality accessories. Their designs graced everyone from movie stars to First Ladies—most famously, Mamie Eisenhower, who wore Trifari to her husband’s presidential inauguration.

 Trifari Through the Decades

1930s–1940s: Trifari’s “jelly belly” pins, floral sprays, and patriotic motifs were incredibly popular. The pieces from this time were often crafted with sterling silver (due to wartime metal rationing) and marked with “Trifari Sterling.”

1950s–1960s: Known for timeless elegance, Trifari produced classic pieces using high-quality plating and intricate detailing. Gold and rhodium plating became the standard, and many designs used brilliant faux pearls and rhinestones.

1970s–1980s: Trifari adapted to fashion trends with bolder colors, larger pieces, and more abstract designs. Quality remained high, but materials and styles were more experimental.

1990s: Trifari was acquired by the Monet Group, and later Liz Claiborne Inc. Designs became more mass-market, though still well-crafted and collectible.

 Trifari Maker’s Marks: What to Look For

One of the best ways to date a Trifari piece is by examining the maker’s mark on the reverse side. Here are a few common examples:

“Trifari” with a crown over the “T” – Used starting around the late 1930s. Highly sought after by collectors.

“Trifari Pat. Pend.” or “Pat. Pend.” – Indicates the design was patented or in the process, common in the 1940s–50s.

“Trifari TM” – The “TM” stands for trademark, used in the 1980s–1990s after the brand changed ownership.

“Trifari ©” – The copyright symbol began appearing around the mid-1950s.

“Trifari Sterling” – Found on wartime pieces from the early 1940s.

Knowing these marks can help you estimate the production period and determine authenticity.

 How to Identify Quality Trifari Jewelry

While Trifari is widely known for its quality, here are a few tips to help you spot top-tier pieces:

Finish: Look for thick, smooth plating (often rhodium or gold-toned). It should feel substantial and show minimal wear for its age.

Stones: High-quality rhinestones will be prong-set, not glued, and should still have sparkle. Faux pearls will appear evenly coated.

Weight: Trifari pieces often feel solid and well-made—not flimsy or hollow.

Construction: Check the back of the piece. Trifari was known for neat, clean craftsmanship—even the unseen parts are nicely finished.

Design: Pieces designed by Alfred Philippe tend to be more detailed and refined, often resembling fine jewelry.

 Why Collect Trifari?

Collectors love Trifari not just for its beauty, but for its enduring craftsmanship and historical significance. Each piece tells a story—from the glamour of old Hollywood to the elegance of postwar fashion. Whether you’re a seasoned vintage hunter or just getting started, Trifari offers timeless charm at every turn.

Five Great Vintage Jewelry Brands to Collect

 

5 Great Vintage Jewelry Brands to Look For When You’re Just Starting to Collect

 Beginner’s Guide for Vintage Jewelry Lovers

Are you just starting your journey into the sparkling world of vintage jewelry? Whether you’ve stumbled across a few pieces at a flea market or inherited a jewelry box from a relative, knowing where to begin can feel overwhelming. One of the best places to start is by learning about some of the most collectible — and accessible — vintage jewelry brands. These makers are beloved by collectors, often easy to find, and known for quality and style.

Here are five vintage costume jewelry companies that are perfect for beginners to start exploring:

1. Trifari 

Why We Love It:
Trifari is one of the most iconic names in vintage costume jewelry. Known for elegant designs and high-quality craftsmanship, Trifari pieces are timeless and highly collectible — but still relatively affordable for beginners.

What to Look For:

• Signed pieces (look for “Trifari” with or without the crown above the “T”)
• Classic motifs like leaves, flowers, and faux pearls
• Pieces designed by Alfred Philippe are especially desirable

Tip: Trifari jewelry from the 1940s–1960s is considered the golden era.

2. Monet

Why We Love It:
Monet jewelry is chic, classic, and often gold-plated — giving you high-end looks without the high-end price. Their bold yet wearable designs make them great for everyday styling.

What to Look For:

• Heavy, high-quality finishes (especially gold-tone pieces)
• Statement necklaces, clip-on earrings, and bangles
• Clean “MONET” signature on the back

Tip: Monet jewelry holds up beautifully over time, making it perfect for vintage wearers, not just display

3. Coro  

Why We Love It:
Coro was one of the largest and most prolific costume jewelry makers in the U.S., which means their pieces are easy to find and come in a wide range of styles — from sweet florals to patriotic pins.

What to Look For:

• Coro, Corocraft, or Vendome signatures
• Duette brooches (a Coro invention – two clips that form one brooch!)
• Colorful rhinestone pieces from the 1930s–50s

Tip: Start by collecting brooches — they’re small, affordable, and full of vintage charm.

4. Sarah Coventry 

Why We Love It:
Known as “Sarah Cov” to collectors, this company offered affordable, stylish jewelry sold at home parties — similar to Tupperware. Many pieces are named, making them fun to collect and research.

What to Look For:

• Lightweight but stylish pieces from the '60s and '70s
• Mod and floral designs
• Clearly marked “Sarah Coventry” or “Sarah Cov”

Tip: Sarah Coventry sets (matching earrings, brooches, and necklaces) are fun to hunt for and easy to wear.

5. Weiss 

Why We Love It:
If you love sparkle, Weiss is your brand! Known for dazzling rhinestones and glamorous designs, Weiss jewelry screams vintage glam.

What to Look For:

• Bright rhinestones (especially aurora borealis!)
• Snowflake-like brooches and clustered earrings
• Pieces signed “WEISS” on the back

Tip: Weiss is perfect for holiday looks or anyone wanting to add a touch of drama to their wardrobe.

 Final Thoughts for New Collectors

Start small, trust your instincts, and most importantly — collect what you love. These brands are a great starting point because they combine beauty, affordability, and history. As you gain experience, you’ll start to recognize styles, signatures, and materials, and before you know it, you’ll have your own curated vintage treasure trove.

Happy hunting!

 Jen and Ida

Western Germany vs. Germany Vintage Jewelry

 

Western Germany vs. Germany Vintage Jewelry: What’s the Difference?

If you’ve spent time browsing vintage jewelry—whether online, at estate sales, or in grandma’s jewelry box—you might have noticed pieces marked “Western Germany” and others simply marked “Germany.” At first glance, they might seem the same, but those little labels actually tell a fascinating story about history, craftsmanship, and post-war identity.

So what’s the difference? Let’s take a quick, friendly tour through vintage jewelry and European history to find out!

---

A Quick History Lesson (Don’t Worry, It’s Fun!)
After World War II, Germany was divided into two separate countries:

West Germany (Federal Republic of Germany)

East Germany (German Democratic Republic)

This division lasted from 1949 to 1990. During that time, most jewelry marked “Western Germany” was made in—you guessed it—West Germany. It was a way to indicate origin, especially for export purposes, as the country was split and needed clear labeling.

So if you see “Western Germany” on a vintage brooch, clip-on earrings, or a beaded necklace, it likely dates from the 1950s to late 1980s—the Cold War era.

---

Jewelry Just Marked “Germany”
Pieces marked simply as “Germany” could mean a few different things:

Pre-WWII (Before 1945): Older vintage or antique pieces often just say “Germany,” and may be from the 1920s, 30s, or earlier.

Post-Reunification (After 1990): After East and West Germany reunited in 1990, manufacturers went back to labeling jewelry as “Germany.”

Generic or Unspecified Timeframe: Sometimes manufacturers didn’t distinguish between East or West, especially for domestic sales or before labeling laws became stricter.

Note:
🟡 “Germany” could mean pre-1949 or post-1990.
🟢 “Western Germany” almost always means 1949–1990.

---

What About East Germany Jewelry?
East Germany also produced jewelry, but it was often not widely exported, and much of it was mass-produced with more modest materials. If marked at all, it might say “GDR” (German Democratic Republic) or “Made in East Germany.” These are much rarer to find in vintage shops outside of Europe.

---

Why Does This Matter for Collectors?
Knowing the difference between these markings helps you:

Date your vintage finds more accurately

Understand the historical context behind the piece

Spot authentic mid-century costume jewelry

Appreciate the craftsmanship typical of West German jewelry (think: high-quality glass beads, creative designs, and meticulous assembly)

Western Germany jewelry, in particular, is known for its colorful, whimsical, and high-quality costume pieces, especially from the 1950s and 60s.

---

Things to Remember
Next time you spot a beautiful vintage brooch or a glitzy beaded necklace marked “Western Germany,” know that you’re holding a piece of Cold War history—crafted with care during a unique moment in time. Whether you're a collector, seller, or just someone who loves a good story behind their accessories, these small markings open a fascinating window into the past.

So wear your vintage jewelry with pride—you’re carrying a little bit of European history!

Eisenberg and Eisenberg Ice Vintage Jewelry

 

Eisenberg Vintage Jewelry History

Early Years

Eisenberg & Sons, Inc. was established in 1914 by Jonas Eisenberg. Initially, the company focused on creating dresses, particularly for the growing ready-to-wear market. The exquisite rhinestone embellishments decorating these dresses became so popular that customers began requesting to purchase them separately. Recognizing demand, Eisenberg transitioned into producing costume jewelry in the 1930s.

The earliest Eisenberg jewelry pieces are highly sought after by collectors today. These pieces, often unsigned, are recognizable by their exceptional quality, meticulous craftsmanship, and the use of high-grade Austrian crystals. The designs of this era reflected the Art Deco style, with geometric patterns and bold, symmetrical arrangements. Floral motifs also started to appear, showcasing Eisenberg's dedication to intricate detail.

Notable Designs and Innovations

Eisenberg jewelry is famous for its innovative designs and the use of top-quality materials. Some of the most notable characteristics include:

·       Large, Brilliant Stones: Eisenberg favored sizable, eye-catching rhinestones, often in a variety of cuts and colors, creating a dazzling effect.

·       Intricate Settings: The stones were meticulously set in rhodium-plated base metal, ensuring durability and a luxurious finish.

·       Figural Brooches: Eisenberg produced a wide array of figural brooches depicting animals, flowers, and other whimsical subjects. These brooches are particularly prized for their detail and artistry.

·       Signed Pieces: From the early 1940s onwards, Eisenberg began signing their pieces, initially with "Eisenberg Original" and later simply "Eisenberg". The signatures add to the collectability and value of these pieces.

Eisenberg jewelry pieces were generally larger and of higher quality than many of its competitors. The use of clear rhinestones and sterling silver during wartime was both distinctive and desirable at the time and remains attractive to collectors today. Their designs were sophisticated and reflected popular trends. This helped to cement Eisenberg's reputation as a leader in the costume jewelry industry.

Eisenberg jewelry holds a significant place in the history of costume jewelry for several reasons:

·       Quality and Craftsmanship: Eisenberg consistently used high-quality materials and employed skilled artisans, resulting in pieces that are both beautiful and durable.

·       Design Innovation: The company's designers were always at the forefront of fashion, creating pieces that were both stylish and trendsetting.

·       Enduring Appeal: Eisenberg jewelry has maintained its popularity over the decades, continuing to be highly sought after by collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike.

·       Collectability: The rarity and quality of vintage Eisenberg jewelry have made it a favorite among collectors. Certain pieces, particularly those from the Art Deco era or signed "Eisenberg Original," can command high prices at auction.

·       Influence: Eisenberg set a high standard for costume jewelry design and quality, influencing countless other manufacturers.

Although the Eisenberg company has undergone changes over the years, its vintage jewelry remains as evidence to its commitment to quality, design, and enduring style. Each piece tells a story of a bygone era, capturing the glamour and elegance of mid-20th-century fashion.

Summary

Eisenberg jewelry began as an offshoot of a dressmaking business and quickly became a leading name in costume jewelry due to its quality materials, innovative designs, and enduring appeal. From Art Deco pieces to signed originals, Eisenberg jewelry remains highly collectible and a significant part of costume jewelry history. Its influence on design and commitment to quality continue to be recognized and appreciated by collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike.

Additional comments noted by Julia C. Carroll in "Costume Jewelry 101"

In Costume Jewelry 101, Julia C Carroll interviewed Karl Eisenberg, who was Jonas Eisenberg’s grandson. Jonas Eisenberg immigrated to Chicago from Austria in 1885.  He gave a general list of dates and their hallmarks for Eisenberg jewelry.  She explained that Eisenberg jewelry is difficult to precisely date by marks as the company did not necessarily retire one mark in favor of another. 

A few of the dates mentioned are below:

1942-1945 Jewelry marked E in script or black print

1941-1945 Eisenberg Sterling due to war effort or Eisenberg Originals

1945-1958 Eisenberg or Eisenberg Ice

1958-1970s Paper Tag or Eisenberg Ice

Some of the slogans used for advertisements for Eisenberg over the years included:  The glittering generation moves up to Eisenberg Ice, Midas Touch, and Jewelry of the Future. 

 

The History of Juliana Vintage Jewelry

The History of Juliana Vintage Jewelry

The world of vintage jewelry is vast and fascinating, encompassing numerous styles, designers, and eras. Among the most sought-after pieces are those from Juliana Jewelry and other distinct vintage collections. This blog post explores the history of Juliana Jewelry, delves into the realm of D & E Jewelry (the company behind Juliana), and provides insights into the unique characteristics of vintage jewelry in general, with a special focus on identifying unsigned Juliana pieces.

The Origins of D & E Jewelry

D & E Jewelry Company, officially known as DeLizza & Elster, was founded in 1947 by William DeLizza and Harold Elster in New York City. Unlike many jewelry manufacturers, D & E did not sell jewelry under its own brand name for many years. Instead, they designed and manufactured jewelry for other established fashion houses and retailers. This makes tracing their work a challenge, but also adds to the mystique and appeal of their creations.

The Juliana Line: A Revelation

In 1967, D & E launched its own jewelry line named Juliana. This line was produced for only a brief period, ceasing production in 1969, making Juliana pieces relatively scarce and highly desirable among collectors. What set Juliana apart was its distinctive design aesthetic, quality materials, and innovative construction techniques. The brand became known for bold designs, vibrant color combinations, and the use of high-quality rhinestones and art glass stones. Although the Juliana line was only produced for a few years, it had a massive impact on the world of fashion jewelry.

Identifying Unsigned Juliana Jewelry

Because Juliana jewelry was only signed for a short time, many pieces remain unsigned. Identifying these unsigned pieces requires a keen eye and familiarity with D & E's design characteristics. Here are some key features to look for:

·       Construction: o   Open-back settings o   Figure-eight puddling o   Use of rivets ·       Stones: o   High-quality rhinestones o   Unusual color combinations o   Variety of shapes and sizes ·       Design: o   Layered designs o   Intricate metalwork o   Asymmetrical arrangements

Juliana jewelry is known for its distinctive construction. Look for open-back settings, which allow light to pass through the stones, enhancing their brilliance. 'Figure-eight puddling' refers to the unique way the solder is applied to the back of the pieces, forming a figure-eight pattern. D & E often used rivets in their construction, a detail not commonly found in other costume jewelry. Juliana pieces often feature high-quality rhinestones, including chatons, navettes, and pear shapes. A hallmark of Juliana is the use of unusual color combinations. Many designs involved layered designs with intricate metalwork and asymmetrical arrangements of stones.

By familiarizing yourself with these characteristics, you can begin to identify unsigned Juliana pieces with greater confidence. Online resources, books, and jewelry collecting communities can also provide valuable insights and assistance.

The Enduring Appeal of Vintage Jewelry

Vintage jewelry, including Juliana, continues to captivate collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike. These pieces offer a glimpse into the past, reflecting the styles, materials, and craftsmanship of bygone eras. Their unique designs and historical significance make them not only beautiful accessories but also cherished heirlooms.

In Summary

We have explored the rich history of Juliana Jewelry, tracing its origins to D & E Jewelry Company. Also sharing the unique characteristics of Juliana's designs, particularly those of these unsigned pieces, and emphasized the enduring appeal of vintage jewelry as a whole. By understanding the history and identifying features of these pieces, collectors can appreciate their beauty and significance for generations to come.